Japan
It has been too long since we visited Japan, something that we were committed to do once travel reopened, and in April/May 2023 we spent almost a month in a country we love.
Our last visit was in 2010, just before the Tsunami that caused such devastation. Like many, we stayed away.
My love for Japan started in the early naughties when I trekked the historic feudal routes. I returned later that year for a 6 month assignment working in central Tokyo, living in a tiny apartment near the Imperial Palace. I was hooked.
When Nick and I met, the first long-haul trip we did was to Tokyo, to show him a world I loved, and he fell in love with too. We have visited many times.
Read on for some of what we got up to, and the links to visit yourself. Be warned though; we tend to head a bit off grid, to avoid the crowds. When we can we like to travel slow, by trains or ferries.
This Blog is split into 5 sections
The Planning: we did our own, it took time.
The Itinerary: for almost three weeks
Locations: Kyoto, Hokkaido, Tokyo, Kanazawa, Osaka
Things I would like in my house: inspired by our travels
Other things to know: tipping, shoes, onsen/bathing, how to use the trains/buses
The Planning
OK, so this is the first thing to think about. It can be tough to work out the timetables, trains and buses to get around. The good news is that they are super consistent and run reliably, and on time.
In the past, even when I was living in Japan, I used Inside Japan Tours, a UK-based company, to book my weekend adventures, they would drop my train tickets and itinerary at my office on a Friday morning and I would be on a Shinkansen (bullet train) out of Tokyo by the afternoon. They are amazing and fantastic at immersing you in the culture if that is what you want. I rode steam trains, made Japanese pottery, learned to cook, and stayed in monasteries and ryokan, all as a single girl.
For this trip, Nick decided to organize it all himself. Crazy, I thought, especially as we planned to head a bit off-grid and the normal tourist trails. He insisted.
We will be honest. It took time. To research trains, ferries, and accommodation. It made it feel amazing when each connection was made.
Here are some of what we know.
Trains: The very best way to look up train journeys is the Japan Transit app. [iOS or Android] It includes the private as well as the JR trains and you can export your itinerary. There are a lot of private railways in Japan. You can only book some trains one month out, so put the booking dates in your diary. We traveled in Golden Week, and still managed to get our choices of trains. On our transit days we booked seat reservations too, with the luggage space near them. You can pick your tickets up in advance from the train stations, we often did this, just to be sure. Expect two tickets; one is the fare, the other is your seat reservation. You may need to write the stations in English on your ticket to remind you.
Tap in/out: For buses, metros and local trains, then SUICA is your friend. You will look like a local as you scan in, or out. Simply add it to your apple wallet, (we have never had a physical card), and it is like a chargeable card that you add funds to. Head to your wallet, and click +, then click travel cards and search for SUICA, simple as that.
Oddly it also works in convenience stores, cafes and many places that you can tap to pay. You cannot buy stamps with it though. On one occasion our phone would not scan, we simply went to the ticket man (there is always one) and he reset, and off we went.Taxis: Are easy to use, if the light on the top is on, they are for hire. The rear door opens automatically, you do not touch it. Make sure you have the address that you want to go do - hotels tend to have a card you can pick up at the reception desk. The fee is clearly displayed. We tended to pay with cash, but some accept cards or SUICA too. Uber works in some cities, but we did not use it, we tended to bus/walk.
Mobile Data: We used UBIGI e-sims and had 5G service pretty much everywhere. Highly recommended.
Accommodation: We used a mixture of booking.com and direct websites to book our hotels and apartments. Being away for so long makes apartments feel more like home, and we could get some washing done, and swap eating out for a cheese toasty and our PJ’s.
Meals: Table Check and Pocket Concierge apps worked really well here. Do not be surprised if you have to choose your ‘menu’ and pay for your food upfront, or if the restaurant ‘sells’ its places to a third party who offers them to its members. In Japan there is a high need for certainty, and in small restaurants they are keen to minimise their waste and offer you a perfect experience.
Our Itinerary
Having visited Japan many times before, there were a bunch of things we knew that we did not need to see and do, and some that we really wanted to experience. We had 24 days, a decent length of time. We knew we would need some rest days, so left space for these.
London > Tokyo > Kyoto: A long travel day
Kyoto: We booked a sanctuary hotel in Arashimaya, by the river on the outskirts of Kyoto. We knew we would be exhausted when we got here, and may need a day or so to reset and recover. We did!
Kyoto > Tokyo > Ferry: One of our off-beat ideas, the overnight ferry to the most Northern island of Hokkaido.
Jozankei: A few days in a hot spring spa in the mountains south of Sapporo.
Sapporo: Time to explore more of Hokkaido, and the coastal towns
Tokyo: An apartment near the Imperial Palace and Tokyo station. This felt like coming home, a place to revisit favourites and find new experiences
Kanazawa: A traditional house, and garden, on the East coast, near the mountains. Definitely off the western tourist trail, but full of amazing things to do
Osaka: A base for day trips and to explore the foodie scene.
Osaka > Tokyo > London: Back home, happy and full of memories
Kyoto
We stayed in Arashimaya, just outside Kyoto. I thought Nick was crazy to book a hotel away from the main bustle of the city, but once we stayed, I was hooked. It was just what we needed, a beautiful base in the hills, by the river, to adventure from.
Arashimaya is like Venice; during the day it is bombarded with bus load of tourists and school trips, from about 10am to 5pm. You can hardly move. But, early and in the evening it empties completely. The downside, most restaurants shut at 5pm, as the tourists leave.
We spent a few days exploring locally, and took some trips into Kyoto to see the big sites.
Best places to eat or drink
%Arabica: A contemporary-style coffee bar right on the river. This is where the trendy things come for coffee. Expect to see lots of pictures being taken. The coffee is pretty great, and they will roast a custom selection of beans for you while you wait. There aren’t public litter bins in Japan, so sit on the river wall opposite, and then tuck your cups in their bin. Expect to queue, it is part of the experience.
Address: 3-47 Sagatenryuji, Susukinobabacho, Ukyo Ward, Kyoto, 616-8385 | Map | Link | IG
bread.espresso: There are two parts to this. In the building on the left is the bakery, which sells things ‘to go’, great for a picnic, or to sit on the bench outside. On a hot day their soft serve ice cream with Biscotti is just right. On the right is a traditional thatched building and this is where the magic happens. Either queue, sign into the screen and they will text you when your space is available, or get there early to avoid the people.
Much of the seating is traditional style (sitting on the floor), there is a table in the centre with eight sit up places. Wherever you sit, you will be expected to remove your shoes. Either put them in the lockers to the right, or in the plastic bag offered and in the basket under your chair.
The breakfast set with french toast, or the ‘egg sando’ are the best. As you leave; beware the see-through, hard-to-spot glass door that slides, and duck for the thatched roof.
Address: 45-15 Sagatenryuji, Susukinobabacho, Ukyo Ward, Kyoto, 616-8385 Map | Link | IG
Okina: This was one of those memorable meals. A small restaurant run by a father/son team, with the front of house run by mum and grandma. With just 8-12 places, it is very private and intimate in a house opposite a factory making Tofu and near a big temple. It is a Kaiseki-style meal, small plates served in sequence, each one a delight. The team do not speak much English, but try really hard.
Address: １１−11 おきな, Sagashakadodaimoncho, Ukyo Ward, Kyoto, 616-8422 Map | Review
Dragon Burger: Sometimes it is good to eat something different, and it may surprise you to know that most Japanese people will swap in pizza and pasta for lunch. This joint is fab, the burgers are meltingly good, with hybrid toppings; expect Wasabi Mayonaise, or Teriyaki sauce, but don’t let this put you off. If you eat in, head upstairs for the best seating, and a view of the street life.
Address: 15-778 Honmachi, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto Map | Link
Pizzeria Mama: A beautiful contemporary building overlooking a Japanese garden. The dishes are designed to be shared. The Pizzas are an individual style and the toppings are a hybrid of Japanese and Western flavours. Well worth a visit. It also has accommodation.
Address: 1-5 Arashiyama Nishiichikawacho, Nishikyo Ward, Kyoto, 616-0003 | Map | Link | IG
Monk: We could not get a reservation here, it is the one that got away. Tucked just off the Philosophers Path, we will be back!
Address: 147 Jodoji Shimominamidacho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto, 606-8404 | Link | Map
Best things to do
Scenic Train: The Sagano Romantic Train runs from a private station next to the JR Saga-Arashimaya station through the gorge, alongside the river to Kameoka torroko Station. It takes about 25 minutes each way.
We took a return trip, coming back on the same train as there isn’t a lot at Kameoka. There used to be a river trip that returned to Arashimaya that no longer seems to be running (and you may get wet).
To avoid the crowds, take the train from Saga-Arishimaya, the seating is allocated and you will think the train is not busy, until you get to the first station, right by the Bamboo forest, which is where most join. On your return, you can hop off here and visit the forest.
Saga Arishimaya: Sagatenryuji Kurumamichicho, Ukyo Ward, Kyoto, 616-8373 | Link | Map
Bamboo Forest: This is what you see on Instagram. If you enter from the main street in Arashimaya, the trick is to realise that the first 50m is not the forest, the street bends to the right, at this point take the left path and keep walking, all the way up the hill. Yes, it will be crowded, especially during the day when you will dodge the tripods of ‘influencers’. When you get to the top, you can access a Scenic Train station. Map
Reflections: A must visit is Yusai gallery along the river. The gallery is set up for beautiful pictures of the hillsides through shoji walls, and with mirrored tables for stunning reflections. The price (¥2000 in 2023) is worth it. There are several rooms, which lead through the gallery, but that is not all. Head up the stairs and to the right and you can watch the silk dyers dying scarves, using a wet method. Be brave and step outside for the water tables. Use the brushes and water to create patterns and reflections.
Before you leave, make sure you take the side path around the building (out of the front door) and visit the sound installation. Add water to hear the echos. Map | Link
Philosophers Path, Temples and Gardens: This stream runs between two of the biggest temples in Kyoto, it feels calmer and a little off grid. We always start with a visit to the Hakusasonso Garden, a place for quiet contemplation, even if it is raining. At the start of the path, you can take a quick visit to Ginkakuji, a beautiful temple and gardens. As you wander down the path, more temples are located to your left. We often visit Nanzenji at the end of the path, before heading to the Keage Incline, think Kyoto’s answer to the High Line. At the North end, you will find yourself by the Zoo. Start Here
Fushimi Inari: The famous Tori gate picture that you will see on Instagram. Either get here early, or walk on, and keep going on, until the crowds have given up, and you are left alone.
Address: 68 Fukakusa Yabunouchicho, Fushimi Ward, Kyoto, 612-0882 | Map
Nishiki Market: We love a food market, this one has changed a lot over the last twenty years, like most. It seems to cater mostly to tourists. It is a great place to grab some snack food - although you may find yourself standing on their doorstep to eat it as you are not allowed to eat and walk. If you haven’t been, you should go at least once to see what it is like. It is a good warm up for other markets Map
Hokkaido
To experience a different side of Japan, head to the northernmost island of Hokkaido.
Most fly, but we decided to travel slowly, and with the overnight train no longer running, we took an overnight ferry instead. It takes a bit of planning; 3 trains (Shinkansen, limited express and local) and 3 taxis, but was a very relaxing way to get there. You can fly in about an hour.
JOZANKEI
We started out visit at our ‘splurge’ hotel; The Chalet Ivy at Jozankei. Located alongside the river in a small spa town known for its hot springs and Onsen. The Chalet Ivy is super nice. Rooms overlook the river and many have their own Onsen. Your stay includes Japanese breakfast and Kaiseki dinners plus. We spent two nights here, which was just right. Map | Link
SAPPORO
Next stop Sapporo, as a base to explore the island. The city feels calmer than those on the tourist trail (Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto). The central streets are empty as most use the underground network as a faster way to get to places.
Beer Museum: If you love architecture, then it is worth a visit to the Sapporo Beer Museum, you can wander parts of the building for free, and see the stunning interior, before settling into the tasting room to try the beer. If you don’t feel like walking back to the centre, then the taxi rank is your friend.
Walking Tour: In the centre, just South of the station you can visit many of the sites of Sapporo; The Radio Tower is a big thing, and is often lit up at night, the clock tower looks out of place, but is well worth a stop. The brick built Hokkaido Government Office and park beside it are pleasant to visit.
Where to eat
Coffee and Croissants: 22%Market, which is in the underground network is the very best place for coffee and pastries it opens at 10am. Map on B1F | IG
JS Burgers Cafe: Sometimes you just want some western food. This location upstairs at Miredo serves up great burgers. Link | Map
OTARU
A popular day trip out of Sapporo, take the Airport Express, to the other end of the line, the historic seaport of Otaru. The train hugs the coastline, almost in touching distance.
From the main station, head downhill, towards the sea, in about 10 minutes you will be at the canals, where you want to snag a ticket for an upcoming canal boat tour. If it is too windy, the tours do not run, and you can see most of the area on foot instead.
The Sakaimachi area is popular for its historic buildings, head for Sakaimachihondori, and wander up and down.
If you have more time, then the Rin-yu morning market [insert link] specialising in Seafood, and the Railway Museum are both worth a visit. There is even a café in a railway carriage. Maps: Market | Museum
Warehouse #1: Not only do you get to see inside a converted warehouse, this one will surprise you. Inside is a German style micro-brewery creating fantastic beers. Put your name and how many people on the written list in the lobby and they will call you when your table is ready. To order, write the dish and drink numbers on a piece of paper and hand to a server. Expect good German beer food; warm soft pretzels, sausages with curry sauce. Map
Tokyo
No trip to Japan is complete without a visit to Tokyo, the capital city. For me, being in Tokyo is like being in London, a sense of deep calm descends and I feel at home. If this is your first time, it will feel like a crazy big city, think New York.
There is too much to do in Tokyo, so choose wisely. We tend to think in vignettes, pockets of things that we do together. Here are some of our favourites.
SHIBUYA and SHINJUKU
Visit Shibuya as the sun sets. Shibuya is the location of the crazy pedestrian crossing. At street level the sheer number of people can feel overwhelming, especially the number of influencers trying for their poses standing still as the crowds surge around them. To get a different view, head to Mags Park, in the Elevator just inside the door hit the R button and head to the Roof. Pay for a soft drink or beer as your entry fee and you will find a place of calm with a great view from above. Watching people crossing is mesmerizing.
Hop back on the Metro to Shinjuku which is best visited as the neon lights come on. Start by heading to the 3D cat, then head to your left and the alleys known as Memory Lane. They are narrow, and lined with eateries. The flowers change depending on the season; cherry in the spring, or autumn leaves. As a very instagramable spot, some restaurants now have ‘no filming’ signs up. Head back under the railway lines towards Golden Gai. If you thought Memory Lane was narrow, with small bars, these are even smaller. Although Japan feels very safe, this area has an edginess to it. Well worth a quick wander.
There are a lot of restaurants in this area, we normally grab some dinner before heading back to our base.
Tempura: For an authentic Tempura experience, head to Tsunahachi. You may need to wait outside, but the queue will move. This is old school and just the way it should be. The set plate options give you a great selection. Address: 3 Chome-31-8 Shinjuku, Shinjuku City, MAP | Link
TSUKIJI and GINZA
Although the wholesale fish market has moved outside of the centre of the city, the retail ‘outer’ market has stayed and in some ways become more vibrant. Open from 6am to 2pm each day it is well worth a wander. To get a sense of the old market, head into the ‘pink’ buildings. Imagine much bigger scale, an open space with porters dashing around, often with a full size Tuna onboard their trolly. Photographs are not allowed.
This is a great place for try one of the eating places, our favourite is a hidden gem, in one of the tiny alleys, called Tsukiji Itadori Bekkan (details below). Map | Link. Wait in the queue until a place becomes available at the sushi counter, which only seats eight and enjoy watching the masters at work.
From here, it is a short wander, or a Metro ride to Ginza, which is the Bond St of Tokyo, enjoy seeing the high society and fashions as you explore the backstreets.
Street Food: If you would like to try some authentic street food, head to ‘Yakitori’ Alley, next to Yūrakuchō station. Underneath the arches, is a thriving hub, which specializes in Yakitori, and beer. A favourite of salarymen as they head home at the end of their day. Map
HAKONE
A great day trip, or even a two-day trip from Tokyo, south into the glorious countryside, with a much-loved view of Mount Fuji.
The journey itself is an adventure, with an express train, a funicular railway, two cable cars, and then a Pirate ship to the other side of Lake Ashi. The Hakone Free Pass includes a return express ticket, plus free use of buses, cable cars, and other transport.
There are three great views of Mount Fuji; on the Cable car as you go over the summit, on the Pirate ship as you pull into the second stop, and then (our favourite), head up the hill from that stop to the Narukawa Art Museum, the entry cost is worth it for the Panoramic view of Mount Fuji, enjoy a coffee in the cafe. Map
One thing to know before you go; Mount Fuji is often covered in cloud and invisible, the best times to view are at the beginning and end of the day.
Some great places to eat in Tokyo
Parklet Bakery: This is a great brunch location, get there early, or be prepared to queue. It is a locals favorite. Map | Link
Blind Donkey: We love the ethos of Alice Waters and her Oakland, CA restaurant, Chez Panisse. Her Head Chef of more than 2 decades has his own restaurant in Tokyo, which follows that ethos. They moved location just after we visited. This article gives a great run down. Link
Lawry’s The Prime Rib: If you are missing your red meat, then this is the place to come. Located near the American Embassy it has the cheesiness of an American high end steak restaurant. The thing to eat is the Prime Rib, once you have chosen how you like yours, they cut a piece in front of you. Bring an appetite. They have two branches in Tokyo, one in Osaka. Map | Link
Tsunahachi Souhonten: We love this tempura restaurant in Shinjuku, it has been there for generations. The service is efficient and old school. Expect to see local guests in their Yukatas. If there is a queue, then wait, it moves pretty quickly. Address: 3 Chome-31-8 Shinjuku, Tokyo | Map | Link
Tsukiji Itadori Bekkan: If you want to get away from the crowds at Tsukiji, this is the place, tucked down a tiny alleyway, it is a gem. A small counter with 8 places, it is old school, with the fish kept in wooden boxes. With your back to the temple, go left one block and take the first alleyway, about 2/3 of the way along, you will see a tiny alleyway, this is the one you are looking for. Itadori is on the left, and has a place to queue just after the sushi counter. Map | Link
Coffee: It feels like there are small coffee roasters everywhere, roasting their own beans and providing great coffee. We stumbled into Mametora Coffee Beans in Akasaka which was a gem. Great coffee and shortbread teddy bears hugging beans. Address: 3 Chome-12-1 Akasaka | Map | IG
Kanazawa
If you would like to lose the crowds of tourists, and see a more realistic example of Japan, then head to one of the smaller cities, we went to Kanazawa, on the East coast, on the other side of the mountains.
We chose to rent a traditional house, located near the Ōmichō market which gave us the opportunity to truly embrace the Japanese way of life.
Places to visit
Kanazawa feels as though you can walk most places. It is well preserved and has plenty to see and do.
Kenroku-en Garden: One of the top 3 gardens in Japan, this ‘strolling’ garden is serene and well worth a stroll. Map
Kanazawa Castle: This is an impressive and recently renovated Castle. Map
Ōmichō Market: A small scale version of Tsukiji, which benefits from being on the coast. Shut on Wednesdays. Map
Naga-machi District: A well preserved area where the samurai lived. Canals flow through the centre, originally used to move the wood to build the castle. Some of the houses are open, and you can see inside. Map If you love clean, contemporary lines, then check out the Soil Flagship Store too.
Places to Eat
Kanazawa is known for being a centre of great cuisine. It is the place that chefs go to for their vacations.
Hirami Pan: The best place for brunch, this favourite of locals, bakes fresh every day. Get there early, or be prepared to queue. Map | IG
Coil: This is a bit of fun, on the second floor of a shopping centre, this is a make your own sushi roll place. Choose your toppings and make your own. Map | Link
Aashirwad: If you are missing a curry, or just fancy a change, this Indian restaurant is excellent. They adjust each dish to the heat you prefer and their naans are very generous. Make sure you call ahead to make a reservation, they speak great English: Map | Link
M’za Department Store: If, like us, you rent a house, or if you would like to get a picnic, then head to the basement here for a wide range of international ingredients and ready-to-eat meals and food. The Sushi-to-go is excellent. Map
Kanazawa is also home to a range of high-end restaurants worth trying if you feel like a splurge meal.
A day out to the Mountains
Time to get out of the city and head deep into the nearby mountains, with a trip on the Kurobe Gorge railway. Link
Take an Express train to Kurobe Unazukionsen, then head across the road to the smaller station at Shin-Kurobe to catch the local train to Unazukionsen station.
Walk 5 minutes to the Kurobe Gorge Railway, a narrow gauge railway originally built to serve the hydroelectric dams which run deep into the mountains.
Whilst some trains still take the workers, and their equipment to the different facilities, additional trains run for tourists, including open carriages.
The 90 minute journey up the gorge is a feast for your eyes, with gushing waterfalls and rivers, tall cliffs, and snow-covered mountains. The train passes over many bridges and through tunnels, take a jacket or pullover in case you are cold.
At the far end, spend a bit of time walking along the gorge and have traditional lunch in the cafe with a view.
The railway runs from April to October. We went early in the Season and not all the hiking paths were open yet. Engineers in climbing gear were assembling the rails and ensuring safety.
Osaka
We finished up in Osaka, staying in the high-end shopping and eating area of Namba. Osaka is a sprawling city and has many faces to show you.
Whilst the main shopping street is lined with the glitz and glammer of couture name, money-no-object designers, just one road over you will find streets and alleys with small drinking holes and eating houses nestled into vintage clothes shops, or sneaker stores. Late at night customised and lit-up monster trucks and American cars cruise the streets.
The famous Dotonbori area, along the river of the same name, is filled with towering neon signs, clubs, bars, and restaurants which are busy day or night. This is where you will find the jiggly cheesecakes, 10cent cheese parcels, and stall upon stall selling grilled takoyaki, made out of batter and chopped octopus, drizzled in sauce, mayonnaise, and bonito flakes.
WIth the neon, it feels as though the city comes to life at night.
When you wander around the city, look down, many of the manhole covers are decorated.
Places to Eat
Osaka is known as a foodie city, with so many small, one room eateries, you really can indulge yourself. Be prepared to queue for the popular items, like jiggly cheesecakes.
The Roasters Coffee: A great stop for coffee and cake. Find your table (upstairs), then come and order. You can pick up a piece of cake from the shop next door too. Address: 1 Chome-10-1 Nishishinsaibashi, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 542-0086 | Map | Link
Pizzeria da Tigre: A small front room kinda place, run by a husband and wife, unassuming, but is worthy of a Michelin star, which it has had for many years. Pay for your Pizza at one of the vending machines by the door, depending on whether you are eating in, or out, perch up at the counter and hand the tickets over. Address: 1 Chome-18-13 Shinmachi, Nishi Ward, Osaka, 550-0013, Japan | Map | FB | IG
Sushi Toyotaka: Tucked down an alleyway, next to a building with ‘Western Lumber Co’ on the front and ringed with the glow of pink neon, this intimate (6-seat) omakase restaurant is well worth finding. At the end of the alleyway, go straight on through two doors. The young chefs will surprise you with a unique and modern take on dishes, and will recommend sake to your taste. $$$ Address: Japan, 4 Chome−10−22, Minamisenba, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 542-0081 Map | IG | How to find
West Wood Bakers: Upgrade your hotel breakfast buffet with this awesome brunch stop. Get there early, before they open at 9am to avoid the queue, which is often 1 hour long. At the weekends they add freshly made doughnuts to the mix. Address: 1 Chome-16-9 Minamihorie, Nishi Ward, Osaka, 550-0015 | Map | Link
Places to visit
We went off grid during our time in Osaka, swapping the crazy streets for the quietness and quirkiness of the suburbs.
Street Art: In search of street art, we headed to one of the docks areas, near the Kita Kagaya Metro station and loosely followed the route suggested here.
The area is home to a creative center which has created public works of art. Street Art is more deliberate here, planned and made with permission. Many popular street artists regularly paint here.
Bizarrely, we stumbled across not one, but two old school London buses parked up in need of some love and attention.
Stop for coffee at NAMS, a hip and trendy contemporary cafe. Address: 2 Chome-5-31 Kitakagaya, Suminoe Ward, Osaka, 559-0011 | Map | IG
In search of Takoyaki: Nick had read about a small, traditional Takoyaki stall in the suburbs which specialised in ‘naked’ balls, without the mayonaise, as they would have been served.
So, on a rainy Sunday we found ourselves dodging the showers, on a mission. Out front was the famous Takoyaki grills, with their familiar circular shape.
This felt like a family affair with the son (in his 50’s) manning the grill while his wife and mother managed the queue and served up piping hot Takoyaki. This was well off the beaten track, with no other tourists in sight.
As we queued we could see a few tables tucked out back, and nodded to them when it was our turn. Sitting on rickety stools our order was taken, there is just one thing on the menu; plates of Takoyaki, the only question was how many plates.
Glancing over, we could see another couple with a bottle of beer, we enquired in our limited Japanese and moments later an icy cold bottle and two glasses appeared, along with the nuclear hot Takoyaki.
This was as far away from the Dotonbori experience that most visitors would experience. We slathered on the sauce with a paintbrush in a pot, and tried not to burn the inside of our mouths as they are best eaten hot.
Takoyaki Umaiya: 4-21 Naniwacho, Kita Ward, Osaka, 530-0022 Map
Full up, and with the rain passing, we wandered the streets stumbling on a back-yard coffee roaster and cafe in a traditional corner house. We ducked inside for coffee and the most amazing macarons.
Kitasuaroji: 9-5 Naniwachō, Kita Ward, Osaka, 530-0022 Link | Map
Koyasan
With good transport links and an effective Metro system Osake is a great base of day trips including Nara and Koyasan.
Koyasan is high up in the hills South East of Osaka, a great day trip from the city. The town is the center of Shingon Buddhism and there are many beautiful temples to visit and stay at, with stunning gardens.
Many stay overnight, enjoying the frugal life of a monk, sleeping in dorm rooms, waking early to pray and eating vegetarian meals.
What to see: Koyasan is known for its cemetery, which stretches along the side of the hill before reaching Oku-no-In temple, the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi, founder of Shingon Buddhism. The walk through the tall redwood trees is atmospheric whatever the weather.
Expect to see smaller statues dressed in red hats, scarfs and bibs, to protect them from the elements, and pilgrims on their journey to visit the temple.
The cemetery is a good place to start your visit, then work your way back towards the cable car station. Get off the bus at stop 11 (Okunionguchi) for the full experience and 2km walk. Stop 14 if you would like to take a shorter route.
Having visited the temple, leave by the shorter route, then hop on a bus back to one of the other stops.
Another must-visit is the stunning Kongobuji temple complex, home to Japan’s largest rock garden.
Banryutei Rock Garden: 132 Koyasan, Koya, Ito District, Wakayama 648-0211, Japan, Map
Where to eat: Hungry after the Cemetery walk we stopped at a reallxy awesome spot; Cafe Yayoica and had their set lunch, of pork with ginger which was the most delicious, yet simple lunch, ever. Cafe Yayoica: 551 Koyasan, Koya, Ito District, Wakayama 648-0211 Map | IG, Bus stop 10 or 11
Getting there: Take the Limited Express train run by Nankai to Gokurakubashi Station. This is a scenic journey in itself, then the Funicular up to Koyasan. Once you get to the top, with the stunning views, there will be a bus waiting to take you into the town. Remember to pick up a map as you leave Gojurakubashi station.
We used digital tickets which included our train, unlimited buses, and our seat reservation. You create a shortcut with your ticket wallet on your smartphone.
If you want seat reservations on the Limited Express, you need to book these after you have bought your Koyasan World Heritage Digital Ticket.
If you aren’t sure when you are going to return, then you can simply take one of the many local trains to return to Osaka. At times the ‘flower’ train runs, which has scenic viewing, these probably need a reservation.
When you are at Gojurakubashi station, look up, the ceiling is decorated.
Things I would like in my house
Japan has solved many things differently from the west. These are things I would like to have in my house.
Bath: A deep Japanese bath that fills itself, and keeps itself hot at the temperature that I choose, with a window onto a beautiful Japanese garden. Not sure that I need the sing-song voice to tell me that my bath is ready, but I could get used to it.
Drying room: This was a revelation to us. The heater/air conditioning unit in the bathroom/rain shower also doubled up as a warming room to dry clothes and a vent after your shower and bath. Simply hang your clothes, set the dryer and return in a couple of hours
Garden: A moss-covered garden, which undulates, has rocks and a bamboo pipe that drips oh-so slowly, that you can sit and watch. A red leafed Acer to give structure and a lantern to hold a candle.
Kettles: A kettle that boils, then keeps warm.
Tatami Mats: That are beautiful to walk on, with a comforting feel and spring to your step.
Other things to know
A few things work differently in Japan, and it is worth knowing what they are.
Toilets:
I have to include a few things here. The first, there are plenty, and I mean plenty of public toilets everywhere you go. All will be clean, with plenty of paper. Some will be really fancy. Do not be surprised if loud bird song starts as you approach the toilet (to mask the sounds), or that the lid automatically opens, and the water starts swirling. Yes, the seat is heated, so that you don’t get cold. The toilet paper is one-ply everywhere.
Litter Bins:
There aren’t any. You might find one on a platform or trains, but not in the street. In Japan, if you buy take out food, you consume it near the venue and put your litter in their bin, or hand it to the staff to dispose of, or you take it home with you.
Vending Machines:
These are everywhere, they are super useful and a great way of hydrating when you are traveling. Pay your money, and choose your drink, or make your choice and then use your SUICA. You will also find vending machines in some cafes to place your order. You can even find vending machines that sell food, fresh or frozen.
Bathing/Onsen:
There is a very clear etiquette with Onsen, if you are not sure, then book a hotel room with its own private Onsen. The big thing; you get clean, VERY clean before you enter the water. You sit on a small stool, with your bucket of water and you scrub yourself with soap. Then you rinse off everything. It is bad form to bring any contaminants, including soap suds, into the bath. You enter the bath naked and in public Onsen, which can be more like theme parks with different baths and pools, men and women have different baths. If you book a private Onsen, it can be mixed. Personally, I would encourage you to experience an outside Onsen at some point on your trip, the cleaning yourself is very cathartic. The water is typically around 42C, it will feel warm, which is wonderful if you have the cool outside air. Then you can regulate, like a sauna.
Shoes: There is a big etiquette about shoes which you may encounter if you visit a traditional style house or cafe. When you enter a building, especially one with Tatami mats, you are expected to leave your shoes at the door. There may be a rack to put them on, if not place them facing the outside, ready to put back on again. If you visit the toilet, you will notice a pair of slippers for you to wear, these help you avoid standing on the toilet floor in your bare feet, or socks.
Tipping: You don’t tip in Japan, it isn’t expected and can cause offense. Interestingly a few of the hotels we stayed at included a service charge in the fee.
Train barriers: Put your physical tickets (train ticket and seat reservation) into the slot together in a stack, they read both at the same time.
Buses: Take a ticket when you get on (it will print your starting stop), or tap with your SUICA, then either pay (if you took a ticket) as you leave, or tap out with your SUICA. There are electronic signs, including English on pretty much every bus. The trick is to take one, get comfortable, and your world will open up for you.
Underground: In big cities, or where there is a lot of snow, there is an underground city. If you wonder where all the people are in the financial district in Tokyo, they are beneath your feet; where it is dry/warm or air-conditioned. The same in Sapporo. This is also where the bustling restaurants and convenience stores are. On Google Maps, you will see a pink shading.
